Lesson Learned

Happy faces. Smiles and laughter. Curiousness. Joking manners. Not quite what one expects to experience from people who have been suppressed and tortured, who have seen more than a few family members disappear or openly killed, and who were starving for years. But that's what one gets in Cambodia.

It's been only a few decades since Pol pot's regime tried to restart with "the civilization" - meaning a begin from the zero by destroying all the existing intelligence, habits and culture. Pol pot has been dead for 13 years and the trials against the few remaining leaders of the Khmer Rouge are still not finished, but the Cambodians seem to be determined to live on. They have learned to survive.

Visitors are warmly welcomed and curiosity is high. Observe and be observed. Children hiding behind their parents, teenagers secretly trying to take a picture of me, bikers stopping to stare. Blame my big camera, "thick wallet" or blond hair, but I felt like offering them just as much entertainment as they were for me.

But the thick wallet is definitely one thing. Even when I wouldn't agree on the thickness. We the Westerners equal in this area a walking wallet. And right they are, when wanting to sell me ten postcards for 1$ and not accepting my refusal but claiming I can afford it, how it's not much money for me. 1$ for a Cambodian is much more than 1$ is for me. Yet still I can't buy the ten postcards for the 1$ from each seller.

They know the tricks. It's hard to say no to a small child running after you. "One dollar" are likely the first English words Cambodian children learn. Everyone seemed to know that much and surprisingly many even more than that. You can refuse to buy the ten postcards or what ever on offer at the moment, but not without getting a moral lesson.

Cambodians have learned to survive and they have learned to take what they can have where they can. Western tourists are a relevant source of a monthly income. In Laos it surprised me how poorly the people could manage pricing their handmade products. They begin with low prices and still easily go into bargaining. Sad to observe, they didn't seem to have a clue on how to value their work. In Cambodia travelers won't have it as easy. Cambodians won't let you off the hook as easy.

Of course the stubbornness was also frustrating. But the people seemed to be stubborn with dignity. All means allowed but pride shall not be lost. The sense of humor showed often through. Still the playing with the travelers consciousness and sense of moral seemed to be most popular tactic.

After all this I must say, I admire them. I admire the people's attitude. After all they've gone through they haven't lost their sense of humor, they are working hard and keeping their heads high. And all this with a smile on their face. Shows some character to remain benevolent and polite when bearing such scars. From there we have much to learn.